This past Tuesday the surf was up at Diamond Head! We took a surf lesson with some of our new friends. From left to right, Lauren, Me, Jackie, and Valerie. We are all nurses in the ICU at Tripler who have never surfed before...and I can even say now that I haven't really surfed. The story continues...
We had two instructors and six in the class. Don't we look so studious sitting in the sand. You might be asking yourself...if everyone in the picture was surfing then who was the photographer. Valerie's boyfriend, Jeff, who also works with us came along to watch. Nothing like having an audience when you are trying out something new! Thanks for the pictures Jeff!
After the verbal instuction, we had some time to practice on shore. Although it is a picture straight down my swimsuit, it is of me trying to "just pop up" after I've caught that killer wave. Easier said than done and way easier on land.
My favorite picture! Everyone is excited, grabs their board and makes a run for the water. Watch out for the rocks! At this point I really have no idea what I am in for.
After we have the picturesque run into the water, we paddle our little hearts out pretty far into the water, out where the waves are. Sounds easy, but this was one of the most strenous activities I have done in a long time. First, let me say that the wind was blowing about 15 miles per hour from the left side of the picture to the right. And we are supposed to paddle between the waves to the left; the wind makes this difficult. The wind also makes the water very choppy and rough. The picture above is of someone who must be on at least day 2 of surfing because they are actually up on their feet. Wanted to add this picture so you can see how rough the water was that day.
After multipe attempts of paddling around in the water, continually being knocked off my surf board...we headed in. I think everyone did this pose as they made it back to shore. Proud to say I was fourth out of six to give up and come back to shore. The day was consumed with 90% paddling and 10% surfing. My arms were so tired from just paddling out the first time that I could not even get myself up off the board to a knee let alone standing. I felt like a fat kid trying to haul myself up on the side of the pool everytime I fell off my board versus the times I felt like a fish out of water because it was hard to keep my board steady. Definitely had times where I pulled myself up on the board only to fall off the other side. I have been sore for days and we all have multipe injuries. I have a goose egg on my noggin from my board shooting in the air and landing on my head while I am being tossed around in the water. Lauren wins the award for most likely to be a surf girl...she actually got up on her knees, where I just rode a few waves while laying on my board. It was a rough day, but we will try again cause it should only get easier (so they say).
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